For a range of our products, you should measure from the outside. When measuring for Tilt and Turn products, you should measure from the inside.

What are frame dimensions?

The frame dimensions are the measurements you need to enter into the fields under ‘Frame Dimensions’ to begin your order. To get them, you need to measure the hole dimensions from brick to brick and then subtract 2.5 cm from the width and height. The 2.5 cm leaves a gap all the way around of approx. 1.25 cm for insulation and sealing.

❗ If the window or door you are measuring is mounted in the wall, you may need to remove the cladding from the window to measure the full width and height.

So how do I measure?

Start by measuring the width first and then continue with the height. Regardless of whether you are measuring for windows or doors. Measure the width and height from brick to brick. Remember to measure in several places, as the opening may be slightly skewed. If the results differ, use the smallest measurement.

🪟 When measuring your windows

When measuring windows, you should pay attention to the interior conditions. Whether it is raw brick or a plastered wall over the frame, you may need to order the windows with a frame groove so that you can subsequently make a nice finish around your new windows.

🚪 When you are measuring your doors

If you are measuring for doors, you should pay particular attention to the interior conditions if it is an inward-opening door. It makes a difference whether you order a new door with a mahogany or aluminium threshold.

For example, if you are replacing a 30-year-old door with a new door with an aluminium base, the door leaf itself could easily hit the floor inside.

Fitting external cills

You can choose to select an 18 mm timber cill packer in the designer so you can fit your aluminium cill pressing onto that. You can also choose not to have the cill packer fitted. If you choose so, the 18 mm is included in the total height of your product.

Learn more about cills for Scandinavian windows and which other options you have.

Here are some more details for each type of glass:

Clear glass

The most commonly used glass for most purposes. The perfect glass for the perfect view. All our glass is of course super low-energy and comes standard with a warm edge. It is good both for the indoor environment and your wallet.

Hardened glass

Our safety glass is 4 times stronger than regular glass of the same thickness. In the unfortunate event that the glass breaks, it will break into small granules, with blunt edges, reducing the risk of personal injury. 

Sun protective glass

Sun protective and energy-saving glass blocks 63% of the sun's heat. This provides a comfortable indoor climate all year round and reduces the cost of cooling the room in summer and heating it in winter. 10-12% less light will come through with sun-protective glass compared to clear glass, but you still get 70% light penetration for Basic Low Energy (double-glazing) and 64% for Premium Energy+ (triple-glazing).

Please note that just like with sunglasses, sun-protective glass looks darker than clear glass, and it is coloured slightly green, blue or grey to protect from the sunrays. Some variations in the colour can occur between elements.

Acoustic glass

Acoustic glass is the perfect choice for areas with high noise levels. The acoustic glass helps create a quiet indoor environment, providing greater comfort and well-being, improved sleep quality and lowered stress levels.

Ornament

Ornament is the most used raw glass and is characterized by its crude and rough surface.

Kura

Kura is also an ornamental raw glass and is characterized by its vertical lines and rough surface.

Satinovo

Satinovo is the more modern type of raw glass, with a more soft and silky surface. This elegant expression fits perfectly with newer buildings.

Our triple glazing consists of three panes of glass and two cavities with "warm edge" spacer bars. The thickness of the glass varies between 4-6 mm and the cavities are each 18 mm. Overall this translates into a thickness of 48 mm for clear glass and a low U-value of 0.7, which implies good insulation and large potential savings on your heating bill.

The sandwich composition of triple glazing provides better insulation due to the overall thickness of the glass and cavities. All our items have warm edge spacer bars to minimise condensation on the inside of the window panes.

Our double glazing consists of two glass panes and a cavity with a "warm edge" spacer between the panes. Glass thickness is 4-6 mm depending on the type of glass chosen, and the cavity is 20 mm. Overall this translates to a thickness of 26-32 mm and a low U-value of 1.1, which implies good insulation and potential savings on your heating bill.

Double-glazing glass provides slightly more light and allows higher solar gain than triple-glazing. However, if great thermal insulation is a more important factor, then we highly recommend triple-glazing. All our items have warm edge spacer bars to minimise condensation on the inside of the window panes.

Would you like to see our different handles and latches in more detail? You’ve come to the right place!

Depending on the choices you’ve made so far in the designer, you will have a choice of the following handles:

• Chrome handle

• Chrome handle with lock

• White handle

• White handle with lock

Or the following latches:

• Chrome with storm hook

• Chrome with child safety lock and storm hook

Note! Our chrome handles vary slightly in colour. If you plan to place several windows and/or doors together, we recommend choosing the same handle for these.

Handles

Chrome handle

Chrome handle with lock

White handle

White handle with lock

Latches

Chrome with storm hook

Chrome with child safety lock and storm hook

Wood + Aluminum
The best of both worlds. The inner part of the element is made of slow-growing pinewood. In contrast, the outer part comprises powder-coated aluminum cladding, making it extremely weather-resistant and virtually maintenance-free. The all clad window is an elegant and long-lasting solution - less maintenance, less cost and less work.

Wood
All our items are produced from FSC-certified, slow-growing pine. Certified slow-growing pine has annual rings with a maximum of 4 mm and with a high proportion of heartwood. We only use wood from the best manufacturers and select each part very carefully, using a special, high-tech four-sided wood scanner. And of course, it is jointed. In short - only the best of the best.

Painted windows and doors
All our items are industrially painted in our own factory by a high-tech painting robot to ensure consistent quality. No external suppliers or unknown intermediaries. This gives us control over every single little detail so that we can ensure you the best of the best. We naturally use only the best paints and waterproofing.

At Klar, you are free to decide how you want your doors to open. There are a number of advantages and disadvantages to each choice. Therefore, it is a matter of the nature of the interior and exterior space as well as personal preference. Read on to be better equipped to decide what you should choose. 

In the video above, you can get an idea of what each opening direction looks like, seen from the inside.

Pay extra attention to the hinge side 

The hinge side is traditionally named according to the space the door opens towards. Therefore, an outward-opening door should be viewed from the outside and an inward-opening door from the inside when deciding whether it should be left- or right-hinged. If in doubt, a good rule of thumb is that you should be able to see the hinge sticking out when the door is closed. If you can, you are on the right side to determine which side the door is hinged on. The same procedure applies to double doors. Here, the door that you open first indicates the direction of opening. For example, in the case of a left-hinged outward opening door, the left door opens first when viewed from the outside. 

Outward opening doors 

The advantage of choosing an outward opening door is that it does not take up space in the home when opened. This can be convenient in the case of an entrance door to a narrow hallway where you want to preserve the limited space. This way, you avoid having to ask other people inside to step out of your way if they are putting on their coats when you need to open the door. Outside, there is often plenty of space to open the door, unless the house has a staircase entrance. Outward-opening doors, due to the construction of the frame, are also superior at wicking away rain. In addition, an outward-opening door also better protects the floor inside, as on a rainy day it does not draw water across the floor when it is opened. If the door is exposed to wind and weather, an outward-opening door is therefore a good choice. 

Inward opening doors 

If, on the other hand, you choose an inward-opening entrance door, the advantage is that you don't have to ask your guests outside to step back when you open the door for them. You also don't have to reach outside to open the door fully, nor do you have to go out and "fetch the door" after guests have stepped inside. With a balcony door, however, you probably do not have this problem, as it is most often used by the house's own residents. 

Conclusion

As mentioned in the introduction, the choice ultimately depends on the specific situation. We recommend that you consider whether you are happy with the way your old door opens. 

Note regarding double doors
When purchasing double doors, the opening direction is determined in relation to the door with handle

Note on doors with sidelights When buying a facade door section, the side section is a minimum of 32 cm wide. In addition, the side panel is always placed on the opposite side of the door's hinges.

The packer's height (18mm) is included in the total measurements for your product. The illustration above shows a window, however, this is true for both windows and doors.

• The total product height with a packer will then be what you chose for your product

The cill packer is a wooden extension that is attached to the cill of the frame and is used to allow the fitting of an external window cill.

Learn more about cills for Scandinavian windows.

If you are planning to use a stone cill or a hardwood cill you can omit the cill packer

• Product height without the cill packer is measured from the bottom of the frame to the top of the frame.

Packer construction drawing

Standard versus Duplex glazing bar

The standard glazing bar option provides bars on both sides of the glass panes. In contrast, the Duplex offers all the benefits of our classic, energy-efficient, glazing bar and a visual result that resembles windows with muntins as they looked in the old days. The visual effect is achieved with a dark "spacer" in the glass between the glazing bars. It is made of energy-friendly material and is aligned with the chosen amount of glazing bars. 

Please note that the exterior glazing bars are always in aluminium for better durability, regardless of the chosen profile type. The difference is seen inside, where you can choose between Classic or Softline when choosing a profile - the only thing you have to decide on right now is the width and whether you want Duplex or standard glazing bars. 

We use an intelligent and hidden built-in vent, so you can ventilate your rooms without opening the window or door. 

Below is an example of a white vent on a white fixed Scandinavian window:

Note that this type of trickle vent is only available on fixed windows and that the photo is taken from the outside. NOTE: these exterior valves, which are only available for fixed windows, are always white. 

Here are 3 tips when you're considering trickle vents:
1. You must have a draught for the vents to work optimally. Order more of your units with vents, or combine them with open windows or doors at the opposite end of the room.
2. The trickle vents are placed at the top of the elements. 
3. Using vents takes away the effect of any sound glass.

The wind brake makes it possible to hold the opening in a certain position even in a small wind by using a special pump function. Simply turn the handle and the position is secured. In the picture, you can see the wind brake, and the rail you can see between the window and the sill.

NOTE: When purchasing a window with a fire escape opening, the wind brake is not present on the left side (seen from the inside), as this is used for the rescue opening function and must therefore be able to open more than 90 degrees.

In short

Briefly explained, a groove is a 10 mm wide and 7 mm deep groove that is milled into the frame of the window. This groove can then be used as a guide for the fitting of internal lining or a window board (commonly referred to as a "sill").

The groove works by pushing the “tongue” at the end of the internal lining or window board into the groove. This creates a perfectly sharp and neat transition between the window and the side wall. The tongue and groove are comparable to a male and a female plug, with the groove being the "female" in this case. (Illustration) Groove ("female"): Milling in the frame Fillet ("male"): e.g. internal lining 

So should I choose frame grooves or not? 

In some cases, you don't have to have your windows delivered with grooves. This may be the case if you have bricked reveals. In this case, a groove is unnecessary as the bricks will continue to the window, and the joints will be evened with putty. Whether you have one or the other will often have something to do with the style of the house. A classic patrician villa will often have internal linings, so it makes sense to order windows with grooves, whereas a modernist bungalow could conceivably have brickwork reveals. In the latter case, you would often not opt for grooved windows.

Window terms 

In a moment, we'll go into more detail about the different choices. But before we do, let's get the terms straight, so we're all on the same page. Below are the correct terms, which will be the ones we use in the rest of the article. Reveal, sill, groove, frame/framework, sill plate/base piece. 

Bottom groove 

If you want to install a new bottom sill, consider having your window delivered with a bottom groove. This allows you to push the bottom sill directly into the groove, which will lie perfectly straight and stable. A bottom groove can also be brilliant if you want to have your kitchen counter continue as one piece directly into the window frame, thus becoming the sill. (illustration) 10 mm Side and top groove Choose the side and top groove if you want to install new side walls.

Side and top groove

Choose side and top groove if you want to install new side walls.

Groove on all 4 sides 

Select an all-around groove if you want to install both a new bottom sill and new side walls.

Concluding remarks 

That's all you need to know about window grooves. If you still have a question or two, get in touch with our customer service team, who are ready to guide you through the ordering process. Finally, it is worth mentioning that it is possible to make your own groove with a router, should you realise after ordering that you needed frame grooves anyway. Also, please note that grooves are not made on inward-opening doors.

Montage holes are pre-drilled openings in the window or door frame designed to make installation faster, easier, and more precise. They ensure correct alignment when securing the unit to the wall and help achieve a clean, professional finish. The holes are optimally positioned to distribute load evenly and provide stable, long-lasting fastening.

Montage holes also make it possible to use the included frame screws for wood, allowing for simple and precise on-site adjustment. This ensures that the frame can be correctly positioned before final tightening, improving both durability and performance.

Please note:
Montage holes are only available for doors with outward opening direction. For windows, montage holes are available only when a latch locking mechanism is selected, and the window height must be greater than 62 cm.